Archive for the ‘Breakfast’ Category

Black Beans: Molletes – Mexican Refried Bean Open Sandwich

Tuesday, June 7th, 2011

Black Beans Healthy Snack Easy

If you haven’t made that big pot of black beans, you’ll want to soon. They are the base for the refried beans in molletes (a Mexican antojito/snack) and other recipes coming up.

Nearly two decades ago I made my first trip to Mexico – I lived with a family in Cuernavaca and traveled around central and southern Mexico. Some of the places I visited were  D.F. (Districto Federal aka Mexico City), Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca, Puebla, Taxco and so many pueblitos I can’t remember their names.

This trip has a very special place in my heart since it was the first time I packed my bags to venture alone in a new country. But, more significant was that it was my first trip to my Motherland and an amazing personal journey – with much familiarity and even more that was new.

I have vivid food memories from this first extended stay, like the tacos de flor de callabaza I bought trail-side after finishing a hike near some steep ruins where the locals frequented; the just-caught, fried fish served with nopales on a remote beach near Puerto Escondido; the mole in Puebla; and the amazing mercado in Oaxaca. Also on this list are molletes (pronounced mo -YEY -tes). Refried black beans and melted cheese on crusty bread, topped with fresh pico de gallo.

This open sandwich quickly became a favorite. At the time, I was on a budget and molletes were a great anytime meal that was both good and cheap. I think I paid the equivalent of 50 cents or a dollar for two halfs when eating out. Two pieces is a full meal for this chica.

Nearly every time I’ve had them in Mexico, they’ve been served with black beans, although pinto beans are also used. Most of my travels so far have been to central and southern Mexico, and the Yucatan – places where black beans are preferred

To make molletes, you can use my Cuban black bean recipe (no, it’s not sacrilege) or your favorite home-made black or pinto beans. You can also use canned beans; but, if you do, buy the beans whole and make your own refried beans, they’ll taste much better.

Molletes are not fancy food but you’ll be glad to have this recipe in your arsenal of quick to make meals for breakfast, lunch, dinner or snacks. As I write this, I’m thinking one of these topped with bacon would be a Mexican BLT.

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Holiday: Splendiferous Cinco de Mayo Eats

Thursday, May 5th, 2011
Cinco de Mayo - History Horchata Mole Poblana Palenqueta Tacos Salsa

Traditional and unsual Mexican eats on Fork Fingers Chopsticks: (top left, clockwise) horchata, purslane tacos, mole poblano, zucchini succotash, salsa verde with tomatillos and avocado, Mexican pumpkin seed peanut brittle.

Feliz Cinco de Mayo. For those not in the know, this Mexican holiday commemorates the country’s victory over the French in the Battle of Puebla on May 5, 1862.

Ironically, the day is celebrated more broadly in the U.S. than in Mexico (with the exception of the city of Puebla). Why? According to some academics, the impetus for American interest was the large number of Mexicans living in California during that time period. When they got word of the victory, they banded together to celebrate the success of their motherland.

Today, the holiday is less focused on the significance of the 1862 battle and is instead a general celebration of Mexican heritage and culture. Many Americans – whether of Mexican descent or not – now participate in Cinco de Mayo festivities.

Mexican eats . . .

In homage to my Mexican roots, I’m reminding you of the splendiferous Mexican eats on Fork Fingers Chopsticks. Yes, I said it . . . “splendiferous.” It’s my word of the week and perfectly describes the array of awesome recipes on my site.

I hope you prepare at least one of these dishes this Cinco de Mayo weekend.  So far, the horchata recipe is the most sought after.

Which recipe is your favorite, whether you’ve made it or not?

Apps:

Mains:

Sides

Drinks & Sweets

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Coconut Milk: Vietnamese Waffles – Banh Kep La Dua

Wednesday, March 9th, 2011

Banh kep la dua

Sunday is my day to chill out. It’s a leisurely day where I let the pace be what it maywhether it’s sleeping in, reading curled up on the sofa or taking my time folding laundry. Some Sundays I am eager to cook up a feast, never mind that it takes 1 or 4 hours. Other times, laziness sneaks in and I want someone else to break out their pots and pans.

Frequently that someone is New Saigon, my favorite Vietnamese restaurant in Denver.

One of the perks of going there on the weekend is that they now serve waffles. These are not the kind of waffles you’d drench in butter and syrup. They are Vietnamese waffles, banh kep la dua – a sweet treat that is served up by Vietnamese homecooks and street food vendors. It’s eaten naked, like a pastry, and is the perfect dessert after my usual meal of spicy lemongrass chicken and vegetables.

Banh kep la dua are made with coconut milk and pandan. The coconut milk is why the recipe is featured with this series and the reason these waffles are so special.

Pandan is a tropical plant frequently used in Southeast Asian cookery and makes its way into many desserts. You can tell by the signature bright green hue (which is a combination of natural color and added food coloring). Pandan tastes and smells sweet and floral.

Last Sunday was a lazy one. My husband and I had lunch at New Saigon. This time, however, I skipped my regular waffle for the first time in months. Because of you, I’ve been tinkering with recipes for several weeks and am waffled out. I’ve created a recipe for Vietnamese waffles that’s crispy and light like the version I’ve come accustomed to on Sunday afternoons.

Re the recipe:  Nearly all the other Vietnamese waffle recipes online use only AP flour (all-purpose) and attempt to get that crispy, light texture by using cornstarch and baking powder or cream of tartar.  I found some references to Vietnamese cooks using only rice flour, but that made waffles that were too light and airy. I prefer a combination of the two for a lighter but more structured waffle.

How to eat a Vietnamese Waffle?

The first time I ate banh kep la dua, it was served hot on a plate. I was sharing it with freinds at the table and wasn’t sure how I was going to split it with my chopsticks from lunch.  The waitress brought us one fork and, because I still looked perplexed, she quickly quartered the waffle and gave everyone at the table a piece in-hand.

It was and still is the best naked waffle whether you eat it with . . . a fork, fingers or chopsticks.

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Cranberry: Fresh Cranberry Chocolate Scones

Sunday, November 21st, 2010

This time of year I take advantage of the access to fresh cranberries by subbing them for the dried or jellied versions when possible. This recipe for fresh cranberry chocolate scones is an adaptation of my standard scone recipe that I usually use with dried fruit – currants, golden raisins, cherries, or dried cranberries.

Scones originate with the culinary fare of Scotland, Ireland and England and are linked to the Welsh tradition of cooking small yeast cakes on bake stones and griddles.

Although scones are not a part of the usual Thanksgiving fare, they certainly are lovely with a cup of tea or coffee any time of day.

Did I mention that traditionally scones are not laden with lots of sugar? For American taste buds, think more about the sweetness of a biscuit rather than those sweet, frosting covered scones found at the market and coffee shops.

Originally, scones were made with oats, shaped into a large round that was cut into wedges. More often these days, classic scones are made with flour and use currants or raisins and are eaten plain or smeared with clotted cream or preserves.

This version capitalizes on fresh, tart cranberries and also calls for chocolate – a combo I adore. I eat them plain – no extra cream, preserves or butter.

One other fact I must mention, scones are best when freshly baked. The recipe below makes a dozen or 14 wedges. If you want to freeze some to bake later, see the instructions about flash-freezing below.

Tidbits on Cranberries:

  1. Cranberries are closely related to blueberries, lingonberries and cowberries.
  2. Cranberries are tested for firmness by their bounce, which explains why they are also referred to as “bounceberries.” Those that do not bounce are discarded.
  3. Cranberries stay fresh longer than other berries because they have a waxy skin.

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Apple: Apple Crisp with Oats

Sunday, September 26th, 2010

Apple Crisp Crumble - British American

It’s apple season. It, like the turning of green leaves to golden and crimson hues, is a symbol of fall. In my house and elsewhere, that means it’s time for apple crisp.

I’m more partial to crisps, crumbles and crunches than pies and tarts – not only to make but to eat. I prefer less fuss – sprinkling a quick topping over raw fruit, rather than rolling and pinching dough, and worrying about an undercooked, soggy bottom crust.

A crisp contains flour, butter and sugar that is roughly mixed and scattered atop of fruit. It’s an American adaptation of the British crumble, which some food historians say was developed there around World War II, when food rations called for a sweet alternative to the beloved apple pie they’d been eating since the fifteenth century.

However, other food history authorities suggest that apple crisp and other non-pie variations such as cobbler were introduced in the nineteenth century by the English. Notably, the earliest print reference to apple crisp in American recipes was in 1924 in “Everybody’s Cook Book: A Comprehensive Manual of Home Cookery” by Isabel Ely Lord.

Regardless of its origins, apple crisp is a fall tradition and a good apple crisp is balanced in flavor and texture. Flavor – tart apples and a crisp that’s not overly sweet. Texture – a tender juicy apple filling and a chewy, crisp topping.

In the last few weeks, I’ve already made three apple crisps – the apples always vary but not the crisp.

The apples I use depend on what’s available – Jonathan, Granny Smith, Pink Lady, Braeburn, and other tart varieties. My best crisp is a mix of apples, using some apples to hold shape and others that will melt to make a sweet, juicy filling.

This crisp is my go-to recipe for any fruit-based crisp. I adapted it many years ago from the Plum and Peach Crisp recipe at 101 Cookbooks. It calls for yogurt in lieu of some of the butter. It’s fantastic because the yogurt adds a bit of tanginess to the already tart and sweet (not overly sweet) dessert. My adaptation also calls for fresh cardamom, one of my favorite comforting spices.

Enjoy! I’m interested in hearing about which apple varieties are your favorite for baked desserts.

Tidbits on Apples:

  1. The large sweet apples that we recognize today descend from wild crabapples from the region of Caucasus in west Asia.
  2. Apples arrived in the New World with European settlers. The first documented orchard in the U.S. was planted in 1625 in Boston.
  3. Choose your apples by what you decide to do with it – eating raw versus baking. Select ones that are firm and bruise-free. The “undercast” (the background color) of ripe apples is generally a dull yellow or dull green. For example a light green Granny Smith is ripe, while a very green Granny Smith is under-ripe. Under-ripe apples will ripen quickly when left out at room temperature.
  4. Store apples in the refrigerator drawer to delay additional ripening. The optimum temperature for apple storage (depending on variety) is between 32 and 40 degrees.

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Purslane: Egg Purslane Tacos – Tacos de Verdolagas y Huevos

Sunday, July 25th, 2010

Tacos de verdolaga purslane egg - ForkFingersChopsticks.com

I’m excited you’re excited for purslane. I feel like I’m on a marketing campaign for the succulent this summer.

I confess, however, the inspiration for featuring this ingredient came from my hubby. He’s been making green smoothies this summer (adding raw kale, spinach, collards and other greens into his berry smoothies for extra nutrients). One day he asked about “purslane” and I reminded him that he’s eaten it in tacos de verdolagas.

In most Mexican cookbooks, verdolagas/purslane are mentioned in recipes with pork. But, they are also frequently eaten scrambled with eggs. That’s how I remember eating them growing up. When I told my brothers and sisters that I was writing about verdolagas – they waxed nostalgically for those tacos with verdolagas, sautéed onions, chile and scrambled eggs.

For those new to purslane, the cooked version tastes like spinach and loses its tanginess. It’s a nice earthy compliment to eggs.

When you prepare the raw purslane, make sure to use the florets and use only the tender part of the stem. The whole stem is edible, but I find the really thick stems chewy. Substitute purslane in those recipes where you’d usually have sautéed greens like spinach.

This morning we had tacos de verdolagas with a little queso fresco and salsa. They are great for breakfast, lunch, dinner or even a snack.

If any of you are already purslane fans, what’s your favorite way to eat it?

Tidbits on Purslane:

  1. Purslane is loaded with vitamins and minerals but for anyone watching their nitrate intake – as in spinach, don’t over do it.
  2. Its name in Malawi (a southeast African country) translates as “buttocks of the chief’s wife,” referring to the plants rounded leaves and juicy stems.

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Cornmeal: How to Make Home-made Polenta Chub Rolls

Friday, June 11th, 2010

Home-made Polenta Chub Roll_ ForkFingersChopsticks.com

In this post, a “chub” is not me in my bikini (no need to see those pics). Nor is it a fish. It refers to the tube, roll or log of ready-made polenta sitting on store shelves and maybe even in your cupboard?

Most people like chubs for their convenience – slice it and reheat. But, the taste of that pre-packaged polenta is closer to a log than what you get when you make it from scratch.

If you’re a chub buyer, you may also be purchasing the ready-made version because you’ve heard that polenta is difficult to prepare. It’s not.

Polenta is simply cornmeal simmered in liquid and stirred. (Read my post about grits v. polenta.) And, to bust a big myth, it does NOT require constant stirring; just a watchful eye and some stirring. It can be prepared simply, mixed with butter and cheese, or made a delicacy with fancy ingredients.

It is commonly eaten in two forms:  soft and creamy or hardened and shaped for baking, grilling or frying. In this post, we’re doing the latter. The ingredients are identical in both except that the polenta cooks longer so it thickens when it sets.

Making home-made chubs is easy – simmer polenta, add flavors, let it cool and set it in cyclinder container. That’s it.

Also note that you can freeze polenta – slice in individual portions, wrap and freeze. Take out what you need, when you need and reheat.

Chubs run about $4 for an 18 oz. roll. You can buy a whole bag of polenta for that much and it’ll make at least six (tastier) chubs. By making your chub, you can create entirely new flavors: green chile and cheese, sundried tomato and Parmesan (recipe below), or asiago and basil. Make sure to finely chop ingredients that don’t melt. I’ve included detailed instructions only as a guide as to the process but experimentation is always welcome.

Buon appetito!

Tidbits on Polenta:

  1. Before corn made its way to the Old World, Europeans ate porridges similar to polenta that were made of millet, chesnut flour, barley and buckwheat. They were eaten much like polenta, seasoned with milk, cheese and meat.
  2. When corn first arrived in Europe, it was grown for animal feed. But, between the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries corn became a staple to peasants and mountain northern Italians. Southern Italians disparagingly refer to their northern countrymen as “polenta eaters.”
  3. Around the world, many cultures that had adopted corn as a primary staple in their diet became afflicted with “pellagra” a niacin vitamin deficiency. They did not follow Indigenous culinary tradition by preparing corn with alkaline water (nixtamal), which increases niacin and lysine. In northern Italy, where many subsided solely on polenta, pellagra became wide-spread. Thought to be associated with corn, Italians at one point forbid eating polenta.

Primary Sources: “The Natural History of Maize” by Ruben G. Mendoza; Polenta by Michele Anna Jordan

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Cornmeal: Shrimp and Bacon Grits

Thursday, June 3rd, 2010

Shrimp and Grits-ForkFingersChopsticks.com

A few of you have said “grits” (the name) is off-putting.

True, it’s a little rough and abrupt. It doesn’t roll fluidly off the tongue. But, I like it. Just like I dig accents and colloquialisms – Southern included. When I lived in Texas, I couldn’t resist picking up a little twang and using “y’all” and “fixin’s” in my vernacular. It was signature to the South, just like grits.

To no surprise, shrimp and grits is also rooted there – South Carolina in particular. It was referred to as “breakfast shrimp” and was a simple fisherman’s breakfast during shrimping season–usually consisting only of shrimp, grits and salt.

Then along came Bill Neal, a young North Carolina chef whose interpretation of the dish has been described as “one of the signature dishes of the Southern culinary renaissance.”

Neal gussied up the low-country version adding sautéed mushrooms, bacon, garlic and cheese grits. It was a hit. Not really a surprise to me since it has bacon and cheese.

His version has become popularized with a little help from a New York Times review and his Southern cookbooks: Bill Neal’s Southern Cooking; Biscuits, Spoonbread, and Sweet Potato Pie; and Good Old Grits Cookbook. Neal died in 1991, but his shrimp and grits are still a favorite at his former restaurant Crook’s Corner in Chapel Hill, N.C. For any of you into Southern food, you may also want to check out Remembering Bill Neal: Favorite Recipes from a Life in Cooking, another collection of his recipes used at Crook’s, which was published in 2004.

The recipe below is adapted from Neal’s version. I reduced the amount of bacon, increased mushrooms, tweaked the seasonings and used green chile cheese grits for some extra earthiness and depth. It’s relatively easy to make and is fantastic for brunch served with some home-made biscuits. It’s good. So good, my husband puts it in his top 5 recipes on this site.

Also, I wanted to share this quirky, little black and white film about grits that I found while perusing the internet.

Tidbits on Grits:

  1. Southerners generally prefer stone-ground grits to the instant version. I found at least one reference to instant grits as “hog slop.”
  2. St. George, South Carolina hosts the World Grits Festival.
  3. At the 1996 Summer Olympics in Atlanta, Ga., Quaker (the grits producer) introduced the international audience to grits via its grits campaign.

Sources: Good Old Grits Cookbook by Bill Neal & David Perry; “Some South for Your Mouth,” Duke Magazine.

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Chocolate: Mexican Hot Chocolate

Wednesday, February 3rd, 2010

A Cup of Mexican Hot Chocolate_ForkFingersChopsticks.com

Did you know there are chocolate holidays? May 15 is National Chocolate Chip Day, December 16 – National Chocolate Covered Anything Day (I like this one) and February is Chocolate Month. I am a bit of a chocoholic, so one or two recipes with this featured ingredient won’t cut it. Over the next few weeks, you’ll get several sweet and savory chocolate dishes – just in time for the ultimate of chocolate holidays – Valentine’s Day.

First up is Mexican hot chocolate. It journeys back thousands of years to the Mayas, Aztecs and other Central American Indians. In pre-conquest MesoAmerica, cacao trees were cultivated for many purposes, such as currency, ceremonial, and culinary use. Nobles and warriors drank cacahuatl, a bitter, frothy beverage made from ground cacao seeds, water, vanilla and chile.

Then, upon the arrival of the Spanish, cacao beans were used to make chocalatl, the precursor to today’s sweet hot chocolate. Cacao beans were ground with sugar and other spices such as cinnamon, cloves, anise, and almonds to create a paste that was hardened into tablets. The tablets were then mixed with hot water and corn broth, and made frothy. This sweet version, when taken back to Spain, grew in popularity and eventually spread throughout Europe.

Spanish Children's Rhyme - Chocolate

Today, Mexican children often drink hot chocolate with breakfast and they’ve even got a little ditty called Chocolate that they sing as their chocolate is being prepared and frothed.

A brew of Mexican hot chocolate is very simple to make using the Mexican chocolate available in many American grocery stores. The chocolate comes in hard disks and is made of cacao nibs, sugar and cinnamon. It is course and gritty before it is melted, rather than smooth like American bars, baking chocolates or chocolate chips. It can be found in the ethnic food section. I prefer the Ibarra brand, but Abuelita is a good substitute.

I grew up drinking Mexican hot chocolate and, for me, nothing can compare to a taza (cup) of the slightly bitter, cinnamon, chocolate treat.

Bate, bate chocolate!

Tidbits on Chocolate:

  1. The Mayas and Aztecs made their cacao drinks frothy by repeatedly pouring the liquid from high, back and forth between vessels. Then, the Spanish modeled a molinillo after indigenous whisks to make their chocalatl frothy. Molinillos are available in most Mexican markets and online (see images below).
  2. Some lore indicates that cacao has aphrodisiac effects and that Motecuhzoma Xocoyotzin (“Montezuma”) drank fifty mugs of chocolate a day, especially before entering his harem.

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