Archive for the ‘Soup – Stew’ Category

Kale: Caldo Verde – Portuguese “Green” Soup

Thursday, November 10th, 2011

"Portuguese Kale Soup" Couve "Portuguese cabbage potato soup"

During the fall and winter, we make a BIG pot of soup at least once a week. It’s just the two of us, but we usually make enough for at least eight servings. Obviously, neither one of us have a problem eating leftovers and, some usually ends up in the freezer for a quick dinner on those occassions when neither one of us want to lift a finger.

This Portuguese Caldo Verde will definitely make it into our regular rotation of favorite soups. See some of them like:

Ethiopian Red Lentil Soup
Mexican Caldo de Res
(beef soup)
Green Pozole
African Peanut Quinoa Soup

Sotanghon (Filipino Chicken Soup)
Mexican Tortilla Soup

Avgolemono
(Green Lemon Chicken Soup)

Caldo verde is a Portuguese cabbage and potato soup. It’s considered a national dish of Portugal – enjoyed both at home and in fine restaurants. Its simplicity is like that of Irish Colcannon (mashed potatoes with kale), which also appealed to country peasants. Caldo verde’s main ingredients include potatoes, greens, and smoked sausage.

As you are well aware by now, kale descended from a wild cabbage native to the Mediterranean region. It is commonly used throughout Europe. There’s a heated debate among Portuguese food purists about what type of cabbage is “properly” used in caldo verde. In Portugal they use Portuguese cabbage called couve.

I’m no botanist. But, unscientifically – from my preliminary research online, in Portuguese cook books and various reference materials, couve formally called “couve trunchuda” is a headless cabbage similar to kale (sea kale) and collard greens. Because of the size and shape of couve’s leaf, however, it may be more akin to collards than kale. But, more recently, kale varieties have been increasingly used to make caldo verde – especially among non-purists like myself.

For this recipe – I would recommend lacinato kale, which is also known as dinosaur kale, Tuscan kale, black kale or cavolo nero. I prefer it over the curly variety in most dishes. It’s also the one I grow in my garden, since lacinato is much easier to clean than its curly cousin.

I also departed from tradition with this caldo verde recipe by adding a few other ingredients that marry well with the flavors of this very simple soup:  vinegar and bay leaves. I did however maintain the distinctive character of cutting the greens into “ribbons” (chiffonade).

This is a creamy soup made delicious with smokey sausage and it’s perfect any time the temperature dips or you need an easy go-to recipe.

Actually, the hardest part of this recipe was locating Portuguese smoked sausage. I scored some linguica, a milder Portuguese sausage than chaurico, from a small Brazilian market/restaurant in North Denver called Little Brazil (formerly Emporio de Brasil). Next time I’ll try some other smoked sausage varieties like Italian versions or kielbasa, which are easier to find.

Enjoy!

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Black Beans: Feijoada – Brazil’s National Dish

Wednesday, July 6th, 2011

Black Bean Stew - Feijoada - History Brazil - Brazil National Dish

I fell in love with feijoada at first bite.  Feijoada (pronounced “faysh-ju-ada”) is known as Brazil’s national dish. Literally it means “big bean” stew. I’m not sure how it was officially declared the honor, but from all the Brazilians I’ve met, they’ve never disagreed.

My introduction to this black bean dish came at Emporio de Brasil, a very small but cherished Brazilian market/restaurant in north Denver. On Saturdays, they serve up a limited number of items – the best of which is Denver’s finest feijoada.

Feijoada is said to have originated during slave times, concocted from unwanted cuts of meat from the master’s table – including the non-choice parts of the pig including ears, snout and tail. Most of the feijoada recipes today still include plenty of pork – generally pork belly, chorizo, ribs, and other kinds of meat like carne seca (a Brazilian dried beef)

As you know, I’m not a huge meat eater and consider myself more of a flexitarian. But, I smack my lips when it comes to feijoada. All that slowly simmered pork makes for a tasty pot of creamy black beans and, to my surmise, is the reason feijoada continues to be a Brazilian favorite.

A feijoada completa or “complete feijoada” is served with rice, chopped greens (usually collards or kale), fresh orange slices, farofa or farinha, and a side dish of peppery sauce. The stew is generally served year-round in restaurants on Wednesdays and Saturdays, and on the weekends when made at home. It is also a requisite dish for a Brazilian feast and other holidays.

Since my first bowl-full, I vowed to make some at home. In keeping with tradition, I made this Brazilian staple on a weekend and made a huge pot to share using three kinds of pork – pork ribs, pork stew and chorizo.  Oink! By the way, the ribs were the prized piece of meat.

Now, you have a recipe to host at your next Brazilian party. If you’re a person who appreciates beans and you can also get down on some pork, then you must try this dish!

Tidbits on Beans:

  1. Brazil was the largest black bean producing country. In 2006, the Food Guide for the Brazilian Population recommended that beans be consumed at least once every day.
  2. 1 pound of dried black beans = about 6  cups of cooked beans.
  3. Black beans are a strong source of phytonutrient, which is generally derived from fruits and vegetables.

Sources:  The World’s Healthiest Foods, Beans: A History, “Brazil” in the Encyclopedia Food and Culture.

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Black Beans: Cuban Frijoles Negros

Monday, May 30th, 2011

Life happens. I know you’ve been there. There’s more on your plate than you can chew on – whether it’s work, family, unexpected twists and turns, or simply keeping up with the day to day.

I’m not complaining. Just keeping it real.

At times like these, I turn to some staples. Near the top of my list of go to foods are frijoles. In most Latino homes, you’ll find some beans ready to eat. My kitchen is no different. I’ve got an assortment of dried beans and cans in the pantry. Yet, It’s the black beans in the freezer and the fridge that are prized and a necessity.

That wasn’t always the case. Growing up, pinto beans were king. That is, until I fell in love with their black cousin.

Frijoles negros, “turtle beans,” “caraota,” and “habichuela negra,” are just a few of the names for this small, shiny, sweet legume that is predominantly used in the Carribean, central Mexico, the Yucatan, and African cooking.

Despite the fact that I’ve yet to visit Cuba, I’ve been making this recipe with slight variations for nearly two decades. It’s my go to recipe for a big pot of beans – some to eat and the rest to stash in the freezer in quart containers.

Cuban black beans are spiced with bay leaves plus a freshly-made and cooked sofrito of olive oil, peppers, onions, cumin, and lots of garlic. If you’re hip to Cuban food, you probably know that black beans are typically more common to the western region of Cuba, while red beans are more popular in the eastern region’s cuisine.

Regardless, these beans are a must try. Half it if you don’t want to make such a large amount. You can also modify this recipe to make other cultural variations of frijoles negros. Make a Puerto Rican version with my sofrito with culantro and cilantro or a Mexican version using epazote.

We’ll be using these beans for more recipes. Stay tuned.

Salud!

Tidbits on Black Beans:

  1. Black Beans and other “common” beans originated in parts of Central and South America.
  2. Beans were introduced into Europe in the 15th century by Spanish explorers returning from their voyages to the New World and subsequently spread to Africa and Asia by Spanish and Portuguese traders.
  3. Purchasing black beans:  buy newer beans when possible since they cook more quickly than “old” beans.  Store in a sealed container in a cold, dry place. If you have leftover black beans and you purchase more beans, do not mix old and new beans since they have different cooking rates.
  4. Cooking black beans:  add salt during the last hour of cooking. I add a tiny pinch of baking soda to my black beans to deter discoloration; this, according to some, is also a method to aide digestion and reduce the incidence of flatulence.

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Coconut Milk: Brazilian Fish Stew – Moqueca de Peixe

Sunday, March 27th, 2011


Moqueca de Peixe Bahia Fish Soup

Although I have yet to visit Brazil, I am enamored with its culture, food and drink. Brazilian cookery has a unique Latin American flavor, influenced by the country’s inhabitants – Native Indians, Africans, and Portuguese.

In this dish – moqueca de peixe, Brazilian fish stew – the African influence dominantes.

From region to region, there are various versions of moqueca de peixe. The Bahian version, which includes coconut milk and palm oil, is generally considered “the” favorite.

The state of Bahia sits in the northeastern part of Brazil. It is also home to the Coconut Coast, 120 miles of coconut groves, and is the largest producer of coconuts in the country. Today, more than 75% of Bahia’s inhabitants are of African descent, reflecting its historical past. During 16th century colonization of Brazil, the Portuguese used the region as an entry point, bringing with them vast numbers of African slaves to work the sugar plantations.

Malagueta chile peppers and dende oil were ingredients introduced into the region by Africans. Both, are used to make moqueca de peixe.

Malagueta chiles are on the hotter end of the spectrum and can be substituted with serrano chiles, which are more readily available in the United States. Dende oil, also known as palm oil, is less readily available but can be located in Brazilian or Latin American markets. Although you won’t find a traditional version of moqueca de peixe in Bahia without dende oil, in our house we make it without it frequently.

This fish stew is actually lighter than you’d think but it’s loaded with flavor. Although it has coconut milk, lime and a fish/sea food-base, it does not taste similar to Asian curries.

Give it a try and add it to your repertoire of coconut milk dishes. Most Brazilians eat moqueca de peixe with a side of rice and some farofa, seasoned toasted manioc flour.

Bom apetite!

While you cook up this dish, check out the tunes and bio of one of Brazil’s famous singers Jorge Ben Jor on Afropop Worldwide.

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Chicken Soup: Easy Mexican Chicken Tortilla Soup

Saturday, January 29th, 2011

Easy Tortilla Soup Caldo Maiz Avocado

This time of year my brown skin gets pasty. Shorter days, I’m outside less and bundled up in layers. I usually escape the winter blues on a beach in Mexico. The last few years it’s been in the Yucatan, mostly around Playa del Carmen.

Four to five lazy days at the beach is some serious R&R with no full agenda. We only take in two or three cultural or historical sites like Chitchen Itza (inland Mayan ruins), Tulum (the beachside ruins) or Coba (more ruins in a jungle setting) because the purpose of these trips is soaking in the natural beauty and chillin’ – sleeping in, long walks along the beach, and swimming/dipping in pristine waters.

During the day, when the sun is blazing we grub on fish tacos or ceviche and swig down a few cold cervezas. Once the sun has set and the coastal winds pick up,  hot soup is more inviting. A bowl of chicken tortilla soup is the perfect appetizer or main course for a soup lover like me.

Over the years, I’ve eaten so many versions of tortilla soup I can’t count. Some had cream, others were thick, and some were so skimpy it was more like consume.

I made this chicken tortilla soup the other night needing some comfort food after a long day at the gig and a single-digit day in Denver. Since I’ve been hobbling about in this medical boot, I come home tired and famished, craving something to assuage the hunger and physical discomfort.

This is one of the best tortilla soups I’ve had. My husband says it’s moved to his list of favorites – it’s that good. It’s easy to make and layered with flavor. This is a smoky version that does not require roasting or dry toasting chiles  – only a little jalapeno and chipotle – staples in my kitchen.

Whether you’re at the beach, in the mountains or in the city, I encourage you to try this one. As for me, I doubt I’ll get to beach it this winter, but, at least I have a damn good bowl of tortilla soup.

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Chicken Soup: Greek Lemon Chicken Soup – Avgolemono

Thursday, January 20th, 2011

Chicken soup is food for the soul and is said to be the most famous broth-based soup in the world. Because it is so popular there are innumerable cultural variations and recipes.  I could have an entire blog devoted to chicken soup – but that would get a bit mundane for both you and me even though I am a soup and sauce addict.

One of my favorite chicken soups – yes, I have a lot of favorites – is avgolemono soupa, Greek lemon chicken soup. “Avgolemono” refers to the egg (avgo) and lemon (lemon) sauce that is the basis of many Greek dishes. The term is also widely used to reference the soup that’s made of the same.

This is a heartier version than most traditional and commonly found recipes because it includes both the cooked chicken and veggies. Many recipes also call for adding flour or cornstarch, I don’t use either and make this recipe gluten-free friendly by using a starchy rice to make the soup thick and creamy. The eggs are also a thickener and give it some richness.  If you can eat pasta, try it with orzo pasta – it’s frequently the preferred starch used to make avgolemono.

The secret to making a really good Greek lemon chicken soup is the stock. If you have home-made stock all the better. If you don’t keep your freezer stocked with it, you can substitute chicken thighs for breasts, which will make for a tastier broth. If you use bouillon cubes, good luck.

If you’ve never made or eaten avgolemono, do try it. Like many other Greek dishes, the use of citrus brings a refreshing balance of flavor.  It’s light but still satisfying and great for leftovers. I’ve been grubbin’ on it these last few nights when I needed some comfort food – the cold temperatures and snow are back in Denver.

I also wanted to mention that I made a food stylng faux pas – I added the fresh ground black pepper to the bowl before I photographed (and soon after ate) it.

By the way this is one of those soups that tastes better the next day.

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Chicken Soup: Filipino Chicken Soup – Sotanghon

Saturday, January 15th, 2011

Sotanghon is one of my favorite soups. It’s a Filipino chicken soup that’s perfect anytime I need some brothy comfort food. It’s my husband’s favorite version of chicken soup.

It’s so good, it’s been in my regular soup rotation for several years, thanks to my girl Celestina, who is an amazing cook. When I get an invite for dinner from her, I dare not decline because she continually introduces me to new dishes from her homeland of the Philippines.

The first time I ate sotanghon I was in heaven. . .  It was a cold, Sunday afternoon and this soup was right on.  I remember it distinctively. It was one of those food moments that is permanently etched in my flavor memory – the first time I had this hot, gingery broth that is both citrusy from lime and salty from patis (fish sauce).

To me it’s the broth that makes this soup stand out and the reason why my version is more soupy than most traditional satanghon recipes you’ll find. Many years ago Celestina showed me how to make a quick version using chicken breasts. I’ve adapted it over the years using chicken thighs to make the broth. I also prefer this version because it has more vegetables than most.

A lot of recipes call for removing the ginger in the final stages. I prefer to leave it in, because the flavor gets more intense as the soup sits. Also, as you know from my ginger posts, ginger aides digestion and is a warming spice. Don’t eat it if it’s not your thing.

I usually buy these ingredients at the Asian market. FYI, sotanghon noodles are cellophane noodles made from mung beans; they are also called chinese vermicelli noodles. I like to get the package with bundles wrapped and tied (see photo below).

This recipe makes a huge pot, half it if it’s too much.

Tidbits on Chicken Soup:

  1. Chicken soup has been a remedy for colds, flu and other infirmities since prehistoric times. The hot broth is coveted because it is thin, protein-based, and easier to digest than a full-on solid meal.
  2. Chicken soup was also considered curative because of it’s light broth, which was similar to the human complexion.
  3. Originally and in some places today, old chickens were used to make chicken soup – because it was a good way to use the tough meat and also a way to stretch out a meal.

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Chicken Soup: Peruvian Chicken Quinoa Soup – Caldo de Gallina con Quinoa

Sunday, January 9th, 2011

2010 went out with a bang. A big one:  I ended the year with a nasty cold (that has just finally run its course) and then injured my foot, which will take longer to recover.

For the last several weeks, I’ve been feeling a bit blue inside and out. So, what better a remedy than chicken soup? It’s not poshy. It’s real food – food you eat when you need something nutritional and comforting.

Caldo de gallina con quinoa (chicken soup with quinoa) was the first meal I ate in Cuzco, Peru. The city is the primary entry point for all the folks like me who set out to visit Machu Picchu and sits at about 11,000 feet in altitude, which means it gets chilly at night. The chicken soup was memorable, however, the alpaca that I also ordered was not.

This Peruvian chicken soup is a brothy fix that will take away the chill, clear the head and sinuses, and soothe your soul. It’s also packed with protein since it has chicken and the “Mother Grain” – quinoa. Read more about the history of quinoa and its nutritional benefits in my previous post.

It’s the perfect time of year for chicken soup. Have a happy and healthy 2011!

Also, if you love the outdoors or if you appreciate architecture, Machu Picchu is a must see. If you’re up for it, I’d also recommend hiking the Inca Trail to get there. It makes the journey to this sacred place – even more spectacular. My husband and I, along with two friends, made this journey in 2006 – with some unexpected adventure (but, that’s another story).

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Apple: Moroccan Chicken Apple Stew

Tuesday, October 19th, 2010

savory chicken apple stew tajine

Are you like the majority of Americans who only eat apples as a raw snack or in sweet dishes? If yes, you’re not alone – only a few years ago, I was the same.

More recently, I’ve taken cue from other cultures that use apples in savory dishes, much like one would use a potato – apples add a tart and sweet dimension to soups, stews and salads.

Last fall, I wrote about the Moroccan and North African cookery and how they use fruit such as apples, pears, quinces, apricots and raisins for savory dishes. This chicken and apple tagine is a twist of the Moroccan Lamb and Pear Tagine I posted. Of course, you could easily substitute pears or use both.

Although I still haven’t bought a tagine (the cooking vessel), this dish is a tagine – a reference to the rich Moroccan stew. The chicken version has more veggies (carrots, zucchini, and potatoes) and garbanzo beans. This is pure comfort food, especially when paired with couscous.

October is national apple month – so try apples in a savory dish. What’s your favorite non-sweet apple dish?

Tidbits on Apples:

  1. In 2004, U.S. per capita total apple consumption was 50.4 pounds per person, according to the U.S. Agriculture’s Economic Research Service. For fresh fruit, Americans eat 18.6 pounds of apples per person, second to bananas.
  2. The high pectin and malic acid in raw apples are good for digestion and elimination. Leave the skin on for extra nutritional benefits. The flavonoids found in apples are believed to help prevent cancer.
  3. The acid content of apples makes them a natural breath freshener.

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