Although I have yet to visit Brazil, I am enamored with its culture, food and drink. Brazilian cookery has a unique Latin American flavor, influenced by the country’s inhabitants – Native Indians, Africans, and Portuguese.

In this dish – moqueca de peixe, Brazilian fish stew – the African influence dominantes.

From region to region, there are various versions of moqueca de peixe. The Bahian version, which includes coconut milk and palm oil, is generally considered “the” favorite.

The state of Bahia sits in the northeastern part of Brazil. It is also home to the Coconut Coast, 120 miles of coconut groves, and is the largest producer of coconuts in the country. Today, more than 75% of Bahia’s inhabitants are of African descent, reflecting its historical past. During 16th century colonization of Brazil, the Portuguese used the region as an entry point, bringing with them vast numbers of African slaves to work the sugar plantations.

Malagueta chile peppers and dende oil were ingredients introduced into the region by Africans. Both, are used to make moqueca de peixe.

Malagueta chiles are on the hotter end of the spectrum and can be substituted with serrano chiles, which are more readily available in the United States. Dende oil, also known as palm oil, is less readily available but can be located in Brazilian or Latin American markets. Although you won’t find a traditional version of moqueca de peixe in Bahia without dende oil, in our house we make it without it frequently.

This fish stew is actually lighter than you’d think but it’s loaded with flavor. Although it has coconut milk, lime and a fish/sea food-base, it does not taste similar to Asian curries.

Give it a try and add it to your repertoire of coconut milk dishes. Most Brazilians eat moqueca de peixe with a side of rice and some farofa, seasoned toasted manioc flour.

Bom apetite!

While you cook up this dish, check out the tunes and bio of one of Brazil’s famous singers Jorge Ben Jor on Afropop Worldwide.

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Sunday is my day to chill out. It’s a leisurely day where I let the pace be what it may–whether it’s sleeping in, reading curled up on the sofa or taking my time folding laundry. Some Sundays I am eager to cook up a feast, never mind that it takes 1 or 4 hours. Other times, laziness sneaks in and I want someone else to break out their pots and pans.

Frequently that someone is New Saigon, my favorite Vietnamese restaurant in Denver.

One of the perks of going there on the weekend is that they now serve waffles. These are not the kind of waffles you’d drench in butter and syrup. They are Vietnamese waffles, banh kep la dua – a sweet treat that is served up by Vietnamese homecooks and street food vendors. It’s eaten naked, like a pastry, and is the perfect dessert after my usual meal of spicy lemongrass chicken and vegetables.

Banh kep la dua are made with coconut milk and pandan. The coconut milk is why the recipe is featured with this series and the reason these waffles are so special.

Pandan is a tropical plant frequently used in Southeast Asian cookery and makes its way into many desserts. You can tell by the signature bright green hue (which is a combination of natural color and added food coloring). Pandan tastes and smells sweet and floral.

Last Sunday was a lazy one. My husband and I had lunch at New Saigon. This time, however, I skipped my regular waffle for the first time in months. Because of you, I’ve been tinkering with recipes for several weeks and am waffled out. I’ve created a recipe for Vietnamese waffles that’s crispy and light like the version I’ve come accustomed to on Sunday afternoons.

Re the recipe:  Nearly all the other Vietnamese waffle recipes online use only AP flour (all-purpose) and attempt to get that crispy, light texture by using cornstarch and baking powder or cream of tartar.  I found some references to Vietnamese cooks using only rice flour, but that made waffles that were too light and airy. I prefer a combination of the two for a lighter but more structured waffle.

How to eat a Vietnamese Waffle?

The first time I ate banh kep la dua, it was served hot on a plate. I was sharing it with freinds at the table and wasn’t sure how I was going to split it with my chopsticks from lunch.  The waitress brought us one fork and, because I still looked perplexed, she quickly quartered the waffle and gave everyone at the table a piece in-hand.

It was and still is the best naked waffle – whether you eat it with . . . a fork, fingers or chopsticks.

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Coconut milk is all that and then some. It is the perfect creamy addition for both sweet and savory dishes.

In our house, we use coconut milk more often with spicy curries and soups and only occasionally in drinks like coquito and sweets like Vietnamese rice pudding (che dau trang).

Growing up, coconut was rarely eaten in our house – except for the shredded version my mom used in desserts or those extremely rare occasions when my dad busted open a hairy, brown coconut. First, he carefully drained the precious coconut water by piercing the coconut eyes (pores) with a hammer and long nail. As youngsters, my little sister and I always lined up for a sip. Then he covered the coconut with a towel and whacked it with the hammer.  And, finally we got to pry at that precious white flesh.

Fresh coconut is still hard to come by, and a bit hit or miss when I find one at the market here in Denver. Thankfully, canned coconut milk is more readily available.

In this Filipino recipe for Ginataang Sitaw Kalabasa, squash and green beans are simmered in coconut milk to create a luscious meal. “Ginataang” (also spelled “ginataan” or “guinataan”) is a Filipino term referring to food cooked with “gata,” the Tagalog word for coconut milk.

My girlfriend Cher turned me onto this dish last fall when her garden was bursting with buttercup squash and the cool weather of the new season was setting in. It’s one of her favorite Filipino dishes that her mamma makes. It’s so good that my husband and I gobbled up three servings each and took home the leftovers. I can be gluttunous – especially where coconut milk is involved.

If you can find buttercup squash use it – please.  As the name suggests, it’s buttery and also a little sweet. Its flavor is not duplicated with other squash varieties. If you can’t find buttercup, substitute with acorn or your favorite squash – your dish will still be delicious. Also note that most traditional recipes for ginataang sitaw kalabasa use long beans, but tender green beans are a good substitute.

This is comfort food, Filipino style.

Tidbits on coconut milk:

1. The coconut tree, cocos nucifer, is considered one of the most useful trees in the world. The long list of uses includes:  food and drink, serving vessels, cooking fuel, textile fibers, thatching/basket materials, timber, medicines and many other useful products.
2. Coconut milk is a thick sweet liquid that is made by pressing water through grated coconut flesh. Do not confuse coconut milk with the naturally occurring opaque liquid derived from the coconut.
3. Canned coconut milk has a fat content ranging from 10 to 25 percent. The higher the percentage means it has more coconut cream and less water, and is also more thick. Pay attention to whether your recipes call for milk or cream.
4. When purchasing coconut milk, opt for those canned versions that do not contain gums or thickeners. Quality canned coconut milk will separate, with the cream rising to the top. Just shake the can before using. Coconut milk is also available in fresh form in the refrigerated section of markets.
5. Refrigerate unused canned coconut milk and use within a few days.

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This time of year my brown skin gets pasty. Shorter days, I’m outside less and bundled up in layers. I usually escape the winter blues on a beach in Mexico. The last few years it’s been in the Yucatan, mostly around Playa del Carmen.

Four to five lazy days at the beach is some serious R&R with no full agenda. We only take in two or three cultural or historical sites like Chitchen Itza (inland Mayan ruins), Tulum (the beachside ruins) or Coba (more ruins in a jungle setting) because the purpose of these trips is soaking in the natural beauty and chillin’ – sleeping in, long walks along the beach, and swimming/dipping in pristine waters.

During the day, when the sun is blazing we grub on fish tacos or ceviche and swig down a few cold cervezas. Once the sun has set and the coastal winds pick up,  hot soup is more inviting. A bowl of chicken tortilla soup is the perfect appetizer or main course for a soup lover like me.

Over the years, I’ve eaten so many versions of tortilla soup I can’t count. Some had cream, others were thick, and some were so skimpy it was more like consume.

I made this chicken tortilla soup the other night needing some comfort food after a long day at the gig and a single-digit day in Denver. Since I’ve been hobbling about in this medical boot, I come home tired and famished, craving something to assuage the hunger and physical discomfort.

This is one of the best tortilla soups I’ve had. My husband says it’s moved to his list of favorites – it’s that good. It’s easy to make and layered with flavor. This is a smoky version that does not require roasting or dry toasting chiles  – only a little jalapeno and chipotle – staples in my kitchen.

Whether you’re at the beach, in the mountains or in the city, I encourage you to try this one. As for me, I doubt I’ll get to beach it this winter, but, at least I have a damn good bowl of tortilla soup.

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Chicken soup is food for the soul and is said to be the most famous broth-based soup in the world. Because it is so popular there are innumerable cultural variations and recipes.  I could have an entire blog devoted to chicken soup – but that would get a bit mundane for both you and me even though I am a soup and sauce addict.

One of my favorite chicken soups – yes, I have a lot of favorites – is avgolemono soupa, Greek lemon chicken soup. “Avgolemono” refers to the egg (avgo) and lemon (lemon) sauce that is the basis of many Greek dishes. The term is also widely used to reference the soup that’s made of the same.

This is a heartier version than most traditional and commonly found recipes because it includes both the cooked chicken and veggies. Many recipes also call for adding flour or cornstarch, I don’t use either and make this recipe gluten-free friendly by using a starchy rice to make the soup thick and creamy. The eggs are also a thickener and give it some richness.  If you can eat pasta, try it with orzo pasta – it’s frequently the preferred starch used to make avgolemono.

The secret to making a really good Greek lemon chicken soup is the stock. If you have home-made stock all the better. If you don’t keep your freezer stocked with it, you can substitute chicken thighs for breasts, which will make for a tastier broth. If you use bouillon cubes, good luck.

If you’ve never made or eaten avgolemono, do try it. Like many other Greek dishes, the use of citrus brings a refreshing balance of flavor.  It’s light but still satisfying and great for leftovers. I’ve been grubbin’ on it these last few nights when I needed some comfort food – the cold temperatures and snow are back in Denver.

I also wanted to mention that I made a food stylng faux pas – I added the fresh ground black pepper to the bowl before I photographed (and soon after ate) it.

By the way this is one of those soups that tastes better the next day.

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Sotanghon is one of my favorite soups. It’s a Filipino chicken soup that’s perfect anytime I need some brothy comfort food. It’s my husband’s favorite version of chicken soup.

It’s so good, it’s been in my regular soup rotation for several years, thanks to my girl Celestina, who is an amazing cook. When I get an invite for dinner from her, I dare not decline because she continually introduces me to new dishes from her homeland of the Philippines.

The first time I ate sotanghon I was in heaven. . .  It was a cold, Sunday afternoon and this soup was right on.  I remember it distinctively. It was one of those food moments that is permanently etched in my flavor memory – the first time I had this hot, gingery broth that is both citrusy from lime and salty from patis (fish sauce).

To me it’s the broth that makes this soup stand out and the reason why my version is more soupy than most traditional satanghon recipes you’ll find. Many years ago Celestina showed me how to make a quick version using chicken breasts. I’ve adapted it over the years using chicken thighs to make the broth. I also prefer this version because it has more vegetables than most.

A lot of recipes call for removing the ginger in the final stages. I prefer to leave it in, because the flavor gets more intense as the soup sits. Also, as you know from my ginger posts, ginger aides digestion and is a warming spice. Don’t eat it if it’s not your thing.

I usually buy these ingredients at the Asian market. FYI, sotanghon noodles are cellophane noodles made from mung beans; they are also called chinese vermicelli noodles. I like to get the package with bundles wrapped and tied (see photo below).

This recipe makes a huge pot, half it if it’s too much.

Tidbits on Chicken Soup:

1. Chicken soup has been a remedy for colds, flu and other infirmities since prehistoric times. The hot broth is coveted because it is thin, protein-based, and easier to digest than a full-on solid meal.
2. Chicken soup was also considered curative because of it’s light broth, which was similar to the human complexion.
3. Originally and in some places today, old chickens were used to make chicken soup – because it was a good way to use the tough meat and also a way to stretch out a meal.

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2010 went out with a bang. A big one:  I ended the year with a nasty cold (that has just finally run its course) and then injured my foot, which will take longer to recover.

For the last several weeks, I’ve been feeling a bit blue inside and out. So, what better a remedy than chicken soup? It’s not poshy. It’s real food – food you eat when you need something nutritional and comforting.

Caldo de gallina con quinoa (chicken soup with quinoa) was the first meal I ate in Cuzco, Peru. The city is the primary entry point for all the folks like me who set out to visit Machu Picchu and sits at about 11,000 feet in altitude, which means it gets chilly at night. The chicken soup was memorable, however, the alpaca that I also ordered was not.

This Peruvian chicken soup is a brothy fix that will take away the chill, clear the head and sinuses, and soothe your soul. It’s also packed with protein since it has chicken and the “Mother Grain” – quinoa. Read more about the history of quinoa and its nutritional benefits in my previous post.

It’s the perfect time of year for chicken soup. Have a happy and healthy 2011!

Also, if you love the outdoors or if you appreciate architecture, Machu Picchu is a must see. If you’re up for it, I’d also recommend hiking the Inca Trail to get there. It makes the journey to this sacred place – even more spectacular. My husband and I, along with two friends, made this journey in 2006 – with some unexpected adventure (but, that’s another story).

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I’ve had a lot of fun experimenting with holiday drinks the last two years – learning about different cultural libations. As you know, these special concoctions are as much a part of the holiday season as are Christmas trees, blinking lights, baked goodies and presents. Raising a glass also raises our spirits – especially when it has some booze in it.

Mexican Christmas Punch, Ponche Navideno (or Ponche de Navidad), is a hot punch served with or without alcohol during the holiday season and most generally during Las Posadas – a nine-night festive re-enactment of Mary and Joseph seeking refuge before Christmas (December 16 – 24). It involves a procession outside – when it’s cold.

Another highlight during Las Posadas are the piñatas filled with sugar cane, tejocotes, oranges, mandarins, jicamas, peanuts and hard sweets. I sure as heck would not want to be near that piñata when it’s busted open. Can you imagine a jicama hitting you from above? Híjole.

I digress. Ponche Navideno is made of fresh and dried fruit and spices. It’s like a hot sangria – anything goes. However, three ingredients are essential to call it Ponche Navideno – tejocotes, piloncillo and canela. The rest vary by cook’s choice, family tradition and availability.

Tejocotes, known also as Hawthorn apples, are native to Mexico and resemble a crabapple. Despite their bright orange color and fruity aroma, they are mild in flavor and their texture is between that of an apple and an underripe apricot. They are the star ingredient, according to most, for Ponche Navideno. They are pricey around $10/lb fresh and can be found in Latin American markets. For this recipe you could also use the preserved or frozen fruit. If you can’t find any, substitute with apricots or kumquats. An interesting note about tejocotes is that they were banned from import into the U.S. for a long time and from 2002 – 2006, they were the fruit most seized by the USDA – most likely for authentic ponche.

Piloncillo is a hard molasses flavored sugar.  The liquid molasses spun from raw sugar is reheated and crystallized into small cones. If you cannot locate it, use a light molasses, raw sugar or brown sugar.

Canela (Ceylon cinnamon) is true cinnamon and comes from Sri Lanka. Two thirds of the world’s production of true cinnamon is exported to Mexico. It has a thinner and more fragrant bark than the cassia and is sweet. Canela can be found at Latin markets, in the “Hispanic” food isle or specialty spice stores.

Tejocotes: fresh, boiled, peeled & deseeded

Piloncillo, canela (true cinnamon), jamaica (hibiscus) and sugar cane

In my ponche this year I used fresh tejocotes, apples, prunes, pineapple, oranges and lime. I also like to use jamaica (dried hibiscus) to give it the lovely crimson color and some tartness.

Experiment with this, even if you don’t make it for Christmas. This would be a nice treat after a day out in the snow – I’m thinking about making a pot at our next group snowshoe over a campfire.

Feliz Navidad!

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I’m a bit of a ginger freak.

I’m quick to try it in its many incarnations. Some of my local Colorado favorite’s are ChocoLove’s Ginger Crystallized in Dark Chocolate, Bhakti Chai (a black pepper and ginger chai that’s fantastic hot or cold), and Big B’s Ginger Apple Cooler.

I haven’t, however, found a local ginger beer that outshines the homemade versions made by Caribbean friends. These versions, for the most part, have a stronger ginger punch and are more complex in spice than the store-bought, fizzy varieties.

In the Caribbean, ginger beer is an all-occasion and special-occasion beverage. My friend Val who hails from Trinidad is an extraordinary cook and fact man. He says ginger beer – typically the non-fizzy version, such as the recipe below, is enjoyed during the holiday season. Other holiday drinks include sorrel punch (similar to hibiscus) and punch de crème (an eggnog-rum-based drink).

Like most recipes, there is no single way to make ginger beer. Recipes vary from family to family and by region. In Trinidad, cinnamon, cloves and lime are typically added. Whereas, in Jamaica, they generally add fresh pineapple. Regardless of the array of spices/ingredients used, one thing is constant – the ginger is strong. This is NOT a whimpy ginger ale, it’s got a bite that’s both refreshing and addictive.

The recipe below is mine. It’s not as sweet as some versions that have about half as much sugar as water. It’s layered with flavor from a whole pound of fresh ginger, cinnamon sticks, whole cloves, fresh lime juice and raw sugar.

Val made sure to hip me up on the “proper” sugar for traditional Trini ginger beer – Demerara, turbinado or another raw sugar but not the white stuff or brown sugar. (However, in my research it appears a lot of folks in the states use brown sugar as a substitute.) A version he remembered most was by a family friend who served her ginger beer much like a sangria – with slices of fresh oranges, limes and a piece of raw sugar cane as a swizzle stick.

Salud! Cheers! Happy Holidays – whether you are neck deep in snow or chillin’ at the beach.

Oops. I forgot to mention. There’s no alcohol in this even though it’s called “beer.”

Tidbits on Ginger:

1. Ginger is a rhizome – an underground stem that grows horizontally.
2. Ginger, although native to India and China is grown around the world especially in the hot tropics including the Caribbean and Africa, where it was introduced in the 16^th century.
3. In the 13th and 14th centuries, ginger, along with black pepper, was one of the most commonly traded spices.
4. Initially ginger was consumed more for its medicinal purposes than for strictly culinary purposes. Today it is believed to aide digestion, relieve rheumatoid arthritis, reduce migraines, sooth sore throats, improve circulation, reduce fat deposits in the arteries and treat nausea.

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